Due to the many choices of hurricane shutters, hardware and installation combinations, it is difficult for the DIY to install most hurricane shutters. However, there is one product that does work well for the do-it-yourselfer if the windows are easily accessible.
The Polyethylene Storm Panel with a combination of Panelmate fasteners can be installed by a homeowner at substantial savings over the professionally installed Accordion or Roll-up Shutters.
Poly Panel installation for standard wood frame house:
This type of installation is well suited for the do-it yourself type of homeowner. Whether your siding is vinyl, wood or Hardie Board, installation is a simple, straightforward weekend project. By special ordering your Poly Panels for each opening, they are cut and punched to exacting standards. This means you have your Panelmates where they should be and your panels are cut to the exact length to fit properly. This process is critical to assuring the greatest strength and security.
First we will layout the Panelmate locations, step 1, and order the Panelmates. Once the Panelmate installation is complete, you will fill out the Poly Panel Order Form and place that order. It’s just that easy!
STEP 1: Panelmate location, photos 1, 2 and 3.
The first and probably the most important step is to mark where your fasteners will go. Typically on wood frame houses, the Panelmates are located along the sides of the window and door openings, six inches apart. The first Panelmate for window and door openings will be located at the bottom of the door or window. For window openings the first Panelmate will be located even with the bottom of the window frame, see photo 1. (for doors, see *Doors below)
Typically the Panelmates will be between one and two inches from the edge of the window/door frame, see photo 2. (see Masonry Installation below for brick/masonry siding exception)
Once you have marked for your first Panelmate, simply measure up from it, six, twelve, eighteen inches and so on, until you are even with or above the top of the window/door frame, photo 3. Now that we have the layout completed, you can order the Panelmate Kit.
*Doors: The first Panelmate at the bottom of the door frames will be one and one half inches (1 ½”) up from the door frame bottom, the floor or door sill, depending on the circumstances. See photo 7. From the first mark, go up six inches on center (6” O.C.) as you did with the windows, photo 3.
STEP 2: Drill holes for Panelmates, photo 4.
You’ve done the hard part, carefully measuring for the Panelmate locations, now it’s time to have some fun. You get to play with the new 14-volt cordless drill that you convinced your wife to let you buy with all the money you are saving. If you didn’t think of that one, it’s not too late! Using the 3/16” drill bit supplied, drill all your holes, be sure to drill them straight so your Panelmates don’t end up at an angle when installed. You should be hitting the solid wood framing on either side of the door or window framing.
Typically a window or door has two 2x4’s on either side, see photo 6, the wall section display. Should you not hit solid wood, you will need to refigure your Panelmate locations to insure hitting solid wood.
STEP 3: Installing Panelmate. (Photo 5)
Using the 3/16” Panelmate Driver driver that we have provided, it’s time to install the Panelmates. To be on the safe side, it’s a good idea to put a little caulk on the threads before inserting each Panelmate. Wipe off the excess caulk after setting each fastener, try to keep the caulk off of the fine threads on the exposed end. The exposed end of each Panelmate will stick out approximately 3/4” although conditions may vary. Later we will come back and put a white or bronze colored Panelmate Cap on each exposed Panelmate.
Ordering Panelmates: Using the installation information in Step 1 above, mark the locations for your Panelmates and then count to see how many you will need. Washered Wingnuts and Panelmate Caps will be included in the order. Be sure to choose a color for your Panelmate Caps, either white or bronze. . The Panelmate Cap will help the Panelmate to blend in with the trim, and will also protect it.
Ordering Panels: Fill out the 3D Poly Panel chart for ordering the panels. Double-check all of your measurements, this is important to proper fit. The Poly Panel Keyhole Slot is specially punched to allow for some adjustment.
Check for fit: When your Poly Panels arrive, normally in two to three weeks, take the time to install them on each opening to insure proper fit. You may want to time yourself to have a good idea of the time needed in the event of a hurricane.
Storing Panels: We suggest keeping the Poly Panels and the Washered Wingnuts in a dry, secure location such as a garage or closet. Slide them under the bed if you don’t have garage or closet space.
*Masonry Installation: Wood frame houses with brick siding require a much longer, specialized fastener called a Male Panelmate. The Male Panelmates are typically two inches from the edge of the brick siding on either side of the window or door opening and are 7-3/8” long. This installation is not recommended for do-it-yourself installation due to the high risk of breaking or cracking the brick or masonry siding.
Due to the many choices of hurricane shutters, hardware and installation combinations, it is difficult for the DIY to install most hurricane shutters. However, there is one product that does work well for the do-it-yourselfer if the windows are easily accessible. 
The first and probably the most important step is to mark where your fasteners will go. Typically on wood frame houses, the Panelmates are located along the sides of the window and door openings, six inches apart. The first Panelmate for window and door openings will be located at the bottom of the door or window. For window openings the first Panelmate will be located even with the bottom of the window frame, see photo 1. (for doors, see *Doors below) 
Typically the Panelmates will be between one and two inches from the edge of the window/door frame, see photo 2. (see Masonry Installation below for brick/masonry siding exception) 
Once you have marked for your first Panelmate, simply measure up from it, six, twelve, eighteen inches and so on, until you are even with or above the top of the window/door frame, photo 3. Now that we have the layout completed, you can order the Panelmate Kit.
*Doors: The first Panelmate at the bottom of the door frames will be one and one half inches (1 ½”) up from the door frame bottom, the floor or door sill, depending on the circumstances. See photo 7. From the first mark, go up six inches on center (6” O.C.) as you did with the windows, photo 3.
You’ve done the hard part, carefully measuring for the Panelmate locations, now it’s time to have some fun. You get to play with the new 14-volt cordless drill that you convinced your wife to let you buy with all the money you are saving. If you didn’t think of that one, it’s not too late! Using the 3/16” drill bit supplied, drill all your holes, be sure to drill them straight so your Panelmates don’t end up at an angle when installed. You should be hitting the solid wood framing on either side of the door or window framing. 
Typically a window or door has two 2x4’s on either side, see photo 6, the wall section display. Should you not hit solid wood, you will need to refigure your Panelmate locations to insure hitting solid wood. 
Using the 3/16” Panelmate Driver driver that we have provided, it’s time to install the Panelmates. To be on the safe side, it’s a good idea to put a little caulk on the threads before inserting each Panelmate. Wipe off the excess caulk after setting each fastener, try to keep the caulk off of the fine threads on the exposed end. The exposed end of each Panelmate will stick out approximately 3/4” although conditions may vary. Later we will come back and put a white or bronze colored Panelmate Cap on each exposed Panelmate.
Check for fit:
